| This in an area of much history... | | | | Pennsylvania. The individual counties were called New |
| I love Sussex County Delaware. I am native born, | | | | Castle, Kent (formerly St. Jones), and Sussex |
| multigenerational and proud to be one of those who, | | | | (formerly Hoornkill, also known as Whorekill, and Deale). |
| as they say; "are from here". | | | | The English proprietors of Maryland contested Penn's |
| The earliest records of our family show we were here | | | | claim to Delaware, and the boundary dispute was not |
| well before the Mayflower arrived in 1620; some our | | | | fully settled until 1750. |
| ancestors were here in the early 1500's or before; | | | | The inhabitants of the Delaware counties were at first |
| when the only records here were all the family Bibles | | | | unwilling to be joined to the “radical” and |
| that each family kept. | | | | very political Quaker colony of Pennsylvania or to |
| In this area, we were populated by those escaping | | | | have their affairs settled in Philadelphia. They finally |
| religious persecution in Europe. This heritage has much | | | | accepted the Penn charter of 1701 after provisions |
| to do with the names and character of our area. Many | | | | were added giving the Three Lower Counties the right |
| local ancestors fled Ireland, Wales, Scotland, Isle of | | | | to a separate assembly, which first met in 1704. |
| Man, when Henry IV dethroned Richard II and the | | | | Delaware maintained quasi-autonomy until the |
| subsequent political and religious purge sent religious | | | | American Revolution. The two colonies maintained |
| zealots to places out of the reach and care of | | | | strong ties, however, and two of Delaware's leading |
| England. I've learned that many were foragers only | | | | statesmen during the Revolution—Thomas |
| and did not farm or hunt, only fished, from directions | | | | McKean and John Dickinson—were also prominent |
| they read in the Bible. | | | | in Pennsylvania affairs. |
| Some of these folks evolved into local farmers, plain | | | | Rehoboth is the next historic town south of Lewes. |
| woodsmen, wild plant pickers and eaters, herbalists, | | | | Rehoboth Beach is known as the Nation's Summer |
| tanners, soap makers, hunters, and under all they were | | | | Capital; because so many of the power elite of |
| missionaries in the areas of what are now Lewes, | | | | Washington D.C. vacation and visit here. Rehoboth |
| Milton, Angola, Long Neck, Broadkill, Nassau, Cool | | | | Beach; The Nation's Summer Capital has another |
| Spring, Whitesville, Quakertown and Red Mill Pond. | | | | name as well - Weekend Washington, a name popular |
| These folks worshipped only God, the Christ, and read | | | | in particular with the college crowd from George |
| only the most original scriptures or were as they say | | | | Washington University in downtown D.C. The traffic |
| just PLAIN... This was all deadly illegal under the British | | | | flow from Washington D.C. is so heavy that it is not |
| rule, except as licensed by the King. Others were | | | | unusual for people to spend 4 to 8 hours each Friday |
| burned, hung, drawn, quartered, drowned slowly and | | | | or Saturday driving the 100 miles from the city to our |
| otherwise tortured to death publicly and imprisoned in | | | | beach. Rehoboth was originally settled as a result of it |
| terrible conditions meanwhile. | | | | being a place for Christian Camp Revivals where |
| I was raised at what is now Eagle Crest Aerodrome, | | | | preachers and parishioners would come to renew |
| on what was early known as the White Farms, near | | | | vows to God and to bath in the waters of the sea for |
| Milton. I started school at Milton school then went to | | | | baptisms and spiritual and physical health renewal. |
| Lewes School and graduated 1967 from Lewes | | | | They did not come during the mosquito seasons for |
| School. Since then I've lived in several areas of what | | | | many years and when they did start coming more in |
| we locals sometimes call "Saltwater Sussex" and | | | | the summer would wear head to toe coverings for |
| what I used to call The Henlopen Quadrant; that is the | | | | reasons of modesty and protection from the flies, |
| locations within 25 miles of Cape Henlopen. | | | | gnats, and fog like swarms of mosquitoes. |
| The Whites, Taylors, McIntires, Potters, Fishers, Maulls, | | | | We are a focal point for D.C. area college students to |
| Brittinghams, etc. were of my mother's family and | | | | come for beach and fun. As these students age many |
| were or descended from the earliest teachers and | | | | join the highest ranks of government and it's myriad |
| missionaries here that I know of. Many of these early | | | | consultants; and they still come to the beach here in |
| settlers established mills and mill ponds where | | | | Rehoboth, Dewey and Bethany. The universities of |
| (perhaps) America's first manufacturing industry, that | | | | Washington D.C. are noted for being the power training |
| of grinding oak bark and developing it into tannin was | | | | bases for this nation's and the world's social and ruling |
| done. This damming of the creeks to make mill power, | | | | elite. The Georgetown University Department of |
| caused our first swellings of little creeks and springs | | | | Government, in cooperation with the School for |
| into what became larger mill ponds. Red Mill Pond was | | | | Summer and Continuing Education, offers |
| such an early example, as was Milton Pond, Millsboro | | | | undergraduate students a unique opportunity to spend |
| Pond, and several smaller ones such as Beaver Dam | | | | an exciting semester as an intern in the nation's capital, |
| Pond, and Saw Mill Pond, etc. As the mills were | | | | while living and studying on the campus of one of the |
| abandoned and dams burst, many of these ponds | | | | oldest and most prestigious universities in the United |
| receded and disappeared. | | | | States. Students gain valuable practical work |
| These "plain people" as they were often known, to | | | | experience necessary to be competitive in today's job |
| themselves, were just plain and not bound to any king, | | | | market, while enriching their academic resume with |
| or religion, except God and the Bible in it's original | | | | undergraduate credits from Georgetown University. |
| languages and in early German. I recall some hand | | | | G.U. is known for its tough standards, especially at the |
| written Bibles, in ink and pen, Bibles in our family home | | | | Law school and the Medical school. This pressure is |
| at what is now Eagle Crest Road and Route One. | | | | continued for the summer sessions as well. These |
| Route 1 by the way was the first road in what is now | | | | students will become some of the finest and most |
| America and connected all the original settlements, | | | | famous Doctors and Lawyers in America. Almost |
| although it was first useful only on foot, later by mule | | | | 100% of these G.U. students exit the downtown |
| and horse. Much later by wagon. There were many | | | | campus on Friday after lunch and drive straight to |
| fords and later bridges as road one, traversing this land | | | | Rehoboth and Dewey Beach. The party starts when |
| from south to north, crossed the many creeks, | | | | they start the car, or in most cases the Jeep or SUV. |
| streams and rivers that fed from the land to the | | | | George Washington University sprawls throughout |
| Delaware Bay. | | | | downtown D.C. along Pennsylvania Avenue and over |
| Cape Henlopen is the anchor point of Salt Water | | | | toward the Watergate. G.W. or G.W.U. either one is |
| Sussex County, where the Delaware Bay meets and | | | | correct, is noted as the place where the future leaders |
| flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Lewes. When you | | | | of our country are educated and interned. The school |
| stand at Cape Henlopen Point, you can see the razor | | | | is running over with students whose parents rule and |
| line of color change where the dark waters of the Bay | | | | work on "The Hill", Capital Hill in D.C. G.W. students are |
| meet the blue waters of the ocean in a diagonal line | | | | often some of the first to escape the city and speed |
| extending from the beach out into the sea. This | | | | toward the Beach, especially Dewey Beach. |
| darkness of the waters is caused by the nutrient rich, | | | | As the student guide for prestigious American |
| therefore muddy, waters that seep out of the great | | | | University in DC says: there are many resort areas |
| marsh which borders almost all of Delaware. | | | | along the coast, such as Bethany Beach, Fenwick |
| This Great Marsh is, even today, one of the most | | | | Island, Rehoboth Beach, known locally as the "nation's |
| ecologically rich and diverse lands in the world; were | | | | summer capital" because of its popularity among |
| thousands of native plants and numerous animals live. | | | | Washington, D.C. residents. The summers are hot and |
| Here they have no native predators to speak of. A | | | | humid in Delaware and the beach is the major |
| most wonderful book about this Marsh is Progger: A | | | | recreation area. American University is famed for |
| Life on the Marsh, by Tony Florio. Only in the last few | | | | educating the future leaders of the world. Many of the |
| years have predators plied these lands, feral dogs and | | | | students are expected to help rule their particular |
| cats loosed from the tourists, visitors and new | | | | countries after graduation. For this reason among |
| townspeople into our great marsh, no longer household | | | | others, the sitting President of The United States gives |
| pets, these thousands of wild cats and dogs, bring a | | | | the Commencement address at A.U. each June - no |
| deadly new addition to the lands. | | | | other school in the world can make that claim. |
| We have, here in Saltwater Sussex, a conspicuous | | | | A.U. is a huge sprawling campus that meanders all |
| absence of poisonous snakes. The early Plain People | | | | over the D.C. area. These thousands of well |
| were unique in that they learned to live here year | | | | connected students From G.W.U., G.U., A.U., and other |
| 'round, (although the American Indians did not) | | | | DC area schools, are particularly expected to lead their |
| especially in and along this fertile great marsh. These | | | | individual countries, including ours, or if they are not quite |
| Plain People gave this land and any others who came | | | | that well connected they are expected to intern and |
| here their full admiration, acceptance and friendliness. | | | | then work as executives in one of the Embassies, the |
| They loved and were loved by the natives who | | | | European Union, the International Chamber of |
| browsed, hunted and fished here. This character | | | | Commerce, World Court, International Monetary Fund, |
| caused them to be known as kind, strong, courageous | | | | Organization of American States, Peace Corps, World |
| and resourceful -- and thus they gained the trust and | | | | Bank, World Health Organization, World Intellectual |
| admiration of these natives. | | | | Property Organization, World Trade Organization, or |
| Because of the relatively large number of missionary | | | | the United Nations. So when you see some "kid" at the |
| settlers here, and the prosperity they created by | | | | beach in Rehoboth or Dewey - pay attention, it is just |
| ingeniously trading goods they made and services to | | | | possible that these "kids" may be ruling and running |
| the native peoples - along with the good will that was | | | | countries and making international headlines in a few |
| enjoyed among all... there was much peace between | | | | years. |
| the native hunters and fishers with these Plain folks. | | | | Dewey Beach is noted for it's motto's "It's A Dewey |
| This region was found to be of great importance to | | | | Thing", "Just Dewey It", "Live IS a Beach", "Dewey - A |
| the Dutch and English. The plain folks tended to stay | | | | Way of Life" and more. Dewey Beach is the primary |
| well away from each other as a show of privacy and | | | | party spot for well financed singles with fit bodies. |
| independence. They did not ordinarily join the | | | | Dewey is the Happy Hunting Ground for the high |
| dangerous, politically combative and disease ridden | | | | pressured professionals of the DC area. Many have |
| towns for generations after these towns were | | | | pseudonyms that are used in Dewey to protect their |
| established here - as the area colonized. In fact there | | | | other place identities. Some of these Dewey People |
| were many of the Colonial towns that died out or | | | | start living the summers in a Dewey House in college |
| were burned out by the natives - because of the | | | | and never stop. There are Group Houses now where |
| unhealthy conditions and attitudes that prevailed. The | | | | most of the participants, the partiers are in their 40s |
| Plain Folk recorded the facts. Thus we have numerous | | | | and 50s and act like they are still in their 20s - and |
| histories of places where everyone was killed or died | | | | always will. There are over two dozen party houses in |
| and these histories were written by the local Plain Folk. | | | | Dewey on the Web alone. This represents several |
| Lewes: This region was hotly contested by the | | | | hundred singles that spend most of their disposable |
| Swedish, Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch and English. The | | | | income in Dewey - and that can be substantial. |
| first officially recorded settlement here at the beach, | | | | Dewey Beach is known around the world for the |
| was established by Dutch patroons, or proprietors, in | | | | famous Rusty Rudder Restaurant and Ruddertowne. |
| partnership with the Dutch navigator David Pietersen | | | | There is also the famous or more properly infamous |
| de Vries; it was called Swanendael and was | | | | Starboard, the rowdy Bottle and Cork, The Waterfront, |
| established (1631) on the site of the town of Lewes. | | | | and The Lighthouse. The customary Dewey lifestyle is |
| However, within a year it was destroyed by a Native | | | | to party all night, get up and run early then go to the |
| American attack. This attack notwithstanding, the | | | | beach and sleep off the night before while tanning. |
| Native Americans were generally friendly and willing to | | | | Then perhaps a little volley ball, some more running and |
| trade with the newcomers. And, notably the native | | | | then checking out the other "hard bodies" for someone |
| people, who seldom lived here but hunted and fished | | | | to hook-up with for the nights partying and on it goes. |
| here during the non mosquito seasons, got along well | | | | The "Professionals" are able to keep this up for the |
| with the Plain People and not the settlers. | | | | Hundred Days during college and then after |
| The Dutch West India Company, organized in 1623, | | | | employment, usually in DC, they try to keep up the |
| was more interested in trade on the South River, as | | | | same average action on just the weekends and |
| the Delaware was called at that time, than in | | | | recuperate during the week. There is a famous quote, |
| settlement (the North River was the Hudson, in the | | | | no longer legal to put in rental ads for beach houses, "4 |
| Dutch colony of New Netherland). Several Dutchmen, | | | | bedrooms - sleeps 50" and the tenants try to stretch |
| interested in settling the area, put their services at the | | | | even that occupancy. Beds are often used for |
| disposal of Sweden and colonized the area for that | | | | sleeping anyway, except by accident. Do you have an |
| country. The best known of these was Peter Minuit, | | | | idea of what "A Dewey Way of Life" might be? |
| who had been governor of New Amsterdam (later | | | | Bethany Beach is just a few miles down The Ocean |
| New York). In 1637-38 Minuit directed the colonizing | | | | Highway or The Coastal Highway or Route One or |
| expedition for the Swedes that organized New | | | | Delaware Sea Shore Highway or whatever name |
| Sweden . Fort Christina was founded in 1638 on the | | | | they change it to next week. The ride from Dewey |
| site of Wilmington and was named in honor of the | | | | Beach is a pleasant and beautiful one of only a few |
| queen of Sweden. The colony grew with the arrival of | | | | miles but the two towns are universes apart in |
| Swedish, Finnish, and Dutch settlers. | | | | difference. Bethany Beach is "The Quiet Place", "The |
| The waters of the Delaware Bay are tributary and | | | | Family Resort", and "The Quiet Resort" and is a town |
| watershed runoff from the Great Marsh and all the | | | | with little going on, outside of the homes. There is very |
| little streams, creeks, rivers and wetlands of eastern | | | | little commercialism and lots of just staying at home or |
| Delaware and New Jersey as well as the effluent of | | | | in some cases going to the beach or the boardwalk. |
| the Delaware River flowing down from Pennsylvania | | | | Bethany Beach and South Bethany, Delaware are |
| and New York. Thus the darker waters of the | | | | nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and the inland |
| Delaware Bay are that way as a result the particles | | | | bays. Bethany Beach and South Bethany Beach are |
| and filtered organic matter from the Great Marsh and | | | | situated on the Atlantic Ocean just south of Rehoboth |
| wetland areas. These darker waters then flow | | | | Beach and Dewey Beach, Delaware, and north of |
| generally south along the Rehoboth, Dewey, area | | | | Fenwick Island, Delaware and Ocean City, Maryland. |
| beaches until the clear waters of the Indian River and | | | | Each of these little beach towns is a world different |
| Bay pushing out the Indian River Inlet force the darker | | | | from each other one. |
| waters away from the coast and out to sea. Thus the | | | | Fenwick Island is the southern-most town in the state |
| ocean water on the beaches south of Indian River Inlet | | | | of Delaware and is nestled between the ocean and |
| tends to be far clearer than that north of the inlet. | | | | the bay. Fenwick Island was incorporated in 1953 and |
| Lewes is known as the First Town in the First State, | | | | is also locally referred to as "The Quiet Resort." This |
| because of this Dutch settlement, even though it didn't | | | | little town has maintained its own unique quality, charm |
| survive. Lewes was the first town settled in Delaware | | | | and small-town atmosphere. The pristine beaches and |
| and Delaware was the first state to ratify the | | | | bays offer a myriad of recreational opportunities to |
| Constitution of The United States - hence the title we | | | | please even the most discerning vacationer. Activities |
| proudly proclaim for Lewes -- First Town in the First | | | | can range from boating, sailing, water skiing, fishing to |
| State. Lewes was first settled by the Dutch and | | | | biking. The ocean water is the clearest and cleanest in |
| Swedes. There are numerous books on the history of | | | | the state. The Fenwick beaches are the most |
| Lewes in the local book stores, perhaps as many as | | | | spacious and least used and the primary activity |
| two dozen different historical and entertaining books | | | | outside of staying home is just lying on the beach for |
| on this fair town. Each has a different version of | | | | that perfect tan. Come see how relaxing Fenwick |
| history to some extent. shows over a hundred. | | | | Island can be for you and your family. Outdoor |
| Lewes has become one of the most historically | | | | activities are backed up with friendly home-town |
| sensitive and aware towns in the area. Some people | | | | services. Family operated motels and restaurants |
| still call Lewes by another older name Lewes Towne. | | | | provide the ultimate in comfort. |
| Some of our visitors have nicknamed it Williamsburg | | | | Let's NOT forget some of the lesser known beaches |
| North with a bit of a wink and a smile to go with their | | | | of Southern Delaware - those hidden little places that |
| love. We have a wonderful little downtown along | | | | not even the locals know much about. These are all |
| Second Street, Pilottown road, Market Street, | | | | along the Delaware Bay, north of Lewes. They are in |
| Savannah Road and King's Highway. There are | | | | order: Broadkill Beach and some call it the old name |
| numerous specialty shops, restaurants and even the | | | | Broadkiln Beach; next to the north are Prime Hook |
| famous King's Ice Cream shop on 2nd St. to entice our | | | | Beach, Slaughter Beach and then Bowers Beach. |
| numerous walkers. Lewes is, more than any other | | | | These little beaches, each one with a unique |
| town in our region, a great place to walk all over town | | | | personality of its own have no commercial |
| as you discover the little nooks, shops, businesses and | | | | establishments to amount to anything, no boardwalks |
| trades that are usually in historically attractive buildings. | | | | and very little rental property market. The homes are |
| In is not unusual to see hundreds of people walking the | | | | mostly very modest older homes but that is changing |
| streets in Lewes, even in the off season. In the | | | | fast. |
| summer season, spring and fall, it is customary to see | | | | Broadkill Beach, where I had an office for several |
| thousands of people and families slowly walking and | | | | years, was originally just squatters who did not own |
| looking at our old homes, businesses, museums and | | | | the land but had little "cottages" there, usually made of |
| scenic views. | | | | spare pieces of lumber and stuff picked up in the |
| The Lewes Harbor is a wonderfully scenic deep | | | | personal junk piles of the farmers who spent time |
| water port, the only one in eastern Sussex County. | | | | there. Broadkill Beach still has some incredibly unique |
| There are sailboats and larger boats moored along the | | | | and sometimes ugly homes scattered among the |
| Lewes and Rehoboth Canal from the Roosevelt Inlet | | | | beautiful modern showcases. Gradually the older |
| at the north end of Lewes down to the Canal Bridge | | | | homes are being removed by the new owners and |
| where Kings Highway and Savannah Road combine | | | | larger and usually spectacular homes put in their place. |
| to cross the drawbridge and connect historic Lewes | | | | Prices in Broadkill are less than half of those in Lewes, |
| to Lewes Beach. | | | | sometimes far less than half! There are no lifeguards, |
| Lewes Harbor as taken from The Lighthouse | | | | no beach cleaning, no town hall, no police, no mayor or |
| Restaurant. | | | | government of any kind and few restrictions. This is a |
| Lewes Beach is more recently developed than the | | | | great fishing community. There are thousands of |
| town of Lewes. The homes of Lewes Beach have | | | | prehistoric Horse Shoe Crabs that mate and die on the |
| seldom been there longer than 50 years and many of | | | | beaches each summer but the locals consider that |
| the older, smaller fixer-upper homes are being | | | | keeps the citifiedpeople away and they like that. |
| removed and larger modern homes built on the lots | | | | Prime Hook Beach or Primehook beach depending on |
| there. The lands of Lewes Beach, all of the lots, are | | | | which map you use is far less expensive than Broadkill. |
| owned by the town of Lewes. Residents, property | | | | There are far fewer modern homes there but the |
| owners and businesses get a 99 year lease which is | | | | trend has started. Little by little the older, sometimes |
| renewable. This lease was originally supposed to be | | | | rough homes at Primehook are being refurbished. The |
| only for the growing of rabbits but, without changing | | | | waterfront homes at Primehook were always far |
| the terms or law, is now used to support many lovely | | | | larger and nicer than those at Broadkill. Many of them |
| beach homes. The modest lease fee is paid to the | | | | are not being removed, but are one by one, being |
| town of Lewes annually. The lots in Lewes do "sell", | | | | restored. |
| actually the leases are transferred to the new land | | | | Broadkill and Primehook as well as Slaughter Beach |
| tenants at the same price as land would be deeded. | | | | are all surrounded by huge barriers of wetlands behind |
| Cape Henlopen State Park includes most of the bay | | | | them and between them. Fishermen can surf fish in |
| front and ocean front land and beaches around | | | | the bay but mostly it is just the view from these |
| Lewes. There are some communities; Pilot Point, Cape | | | | beaches that the residents enjoy and the lost in time |
| Shores, Port Lewes, and the Delaware River and Bay | | | | lack of modern restrictions and commercialism. |
| Pilots Association along the Bay. The Cape Henlopen | | | | Slaughter Beach does have its own volunteer fire |
| State Park was once Fort Miles the Army base. Fort | | | | department which serves as the social focus of the |
| Miles was set up between World War I and World | | | | town. But mostly there are just good neighbors and a |
| War II to protect the Delaware Bay shipping traffic | | | | laid back life available at these old beaches. If you |
| from the German submarines. Now the thousands of | | | | want something else, you'll have to drive a half hour or |
| acres of beach, dunes, wetlands and woods that | | | | so to one of the small towns inland to find it. |
| stretch between Lewes and Rehoboth are all part of | | | | Bowers Beach is a strange and wonderful world out |
| the park and the military buildings have other beachy | | | | of place. For one thing you can't get from south |
| uses. | | | | Bowers to north Bowers by car or foot - only by boat, |
| William Penn was a much loved European and | | | | unless you go many miles inland and back. The channel |
| politically active adherant of plain folks that remained | | | | is only a hundred feet wide that divides the town but |
| under the yoke of England, while hiding their distaste | | | | the two sides of town are remote from each other - |
| for the religions of the Kings and meeting secretly. | | | | except for the residents who just hop on a dingy and |
| Penn was convicted of various political crimes and | | | | slip across. Bowers, on a busy day, in the height of the |
| exiled over here were it was supposed other like | | | | summer seasonmight see six or seven tourists in a |
| minded plain folks already resided in horrid and deadly | | | | day - but not usually that many. |
| and uncivilized residency with the Indians. This land of | | | | Each beach as you travel north up the bay has lower |
| Penn's exile, named Penn's woods or Pennsylvania | | | | prices, less swimming enjoyment, less fishing as a rule |
| was in deference to his social and political popularity. In | | | | and less government and restrictions. Each has its |
| 1682 a duke transferred the Lewes claim to Penn, | | | | lovers and most people will have a love or hate |
| who wanted to secure a navigable water route from | | | | response to any given one of the beaches. I love them |
| his new colony of Pennsylvania to the ocean. The | | | | all, each in a different way and will gladly help you find |
| three counties of Delaware thus became the Three | | | | your utopian dream location. Just let us know when |
| Lower Counties (or Territories, as Penn called them) of | | | | you are ready to choose! |